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Author Topic: Changing pipe/air filter.  (Read 2623 times)
asmethurst
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« on: May 10, 2015, 19:14:35 pm »

This is prompted by another forum that I frequent ...with discussions about remapping of Ecu and poor running.
I've changed my air filter for a kn and changed the exhaust to a delkevic .
The bike (k8 650) runs  fine ...seems to rev more easily but I am aware of the unreliability of the seat of the pants feel.
I've noticed the fan coming on slightly more ( not unusual as I live in London and often the last 5 mins of my ride is stop start until I get to my lockup)
Threads I've read have mentioned lean running ...is the something to bothered about ?
I thought the FI would sort this ?
The above are the only modifications ....please point the way to the relevant thread if one is available .
Thanks in advance
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trotts
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2015, 20:36:27 pm »

You can search on here and find loads info re power commander (that I have) and many will offer a different opinion. IMHO reality is Bikes run 'lean' to save the world and pass emission tests.  By changing filter and after market can chances are it is even leaner, and you run a risk of potential problems down the road.

I would find out a friendly dyno man near you and get him to check it out and he will tell you how it is performing, rich lean what ever.  Might be best 20 odd quid you would spend !

A power commander costs a few quid, that said often see them coming up on flea bay and grab a bargain. You know your bike will then be set up and running as it should across the whole rev range. 

can't remember my fan ever coming on, even in the middle of Spain ! And brilliant MPG
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asmethurst
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2015, 20:52:24 pm »

Thanks ...
All my bikes have had the fan come on .... quick blast then lots of stop start and then slow moving traffic ...
Worst is coming off the Motorway into Hackney ....but generally its only briefly ....
I have a Dynoplace near me .. i had already considered going there.
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dharry
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2015, 10:53:08 am »

Threads I've read have mentioned lean running ...is the something to bothered about ?
I thought the FI would sort this ?

the FI won't sort it, but if you changed just the end can (stock headers with cat) and the filter, there's no risk to damage the engine... damage occurs when the engine runs too lean on high load/high RPM, and in these conditions FI is always programmed on the safe side (mixtures as rich as 12:1 or 13:1... they know someone somewhere will fit an open can, or will use bad fuel).
With a powercommander and some dyno runs you'll optimize your setup, that now in spite of the noise it makes, might even deliver less HP than stock :-)
It's normal to hear the fan spinning when you ride very slow in the city traffic... no need to bother.

best,

DH
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asmethurst
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2015, 15:07:49 pm »

Thanks DH ...
Youre right re the seatofthepantsometer and hp -
It seems much easier to ride and willing to rev (note seems !)
dick Grin
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dharry
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2015, 19:37:26 pm »

It seems much easier to ride and willing to rev (note seems !)

maybe it is... who knows?
can you read German? Motorrad magazine has made a lot of tests of aftermarket open cans, they mount the can then dyno the bike.
The results are interesting: in some cases you gain a 2-3% power, but in a lot of cases you get a power loss as high as 7-8%.

best,

DH
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asmethurst
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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2015, 18:31:39 pm »

As an afterthought ...one thing I have noticed is that the air box lid did not seal completely and needed the screws doing up tightly ( even so it's a mm proud midway top to bottom)
Is there a knock to fitting them ? I have the correct one su6505.
I took the original o ring out and off the bike the filter sits happily in the air box lid .
Any thoughts  or glaring mistakes ?
TIA
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Pickaxe
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« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2015, 10:39:44 am »

maybe it is... who knows?
can you read German? Motorrad magazine has made a lot of tests of aftermarket open cans, they mount the can then dyno the bike.
The results are interesting: in some cases you gain a 2-3% power, but in a lot of cases you get a power loss as high as 7-8%.

best,

DH

I don't think you need to read German to see that what you're saying is correct for the 1250 Suzuki they used. In almost every case, you get a small increase in unusable power at the high end and lose even more power lower down, in the place you want it. So without dyno and remapping you're almost certainly making matters worse. There must however be a case for the placebo effect. If it sounds louder it must be faster  icon_lol
« Last Edit: May 21, 2015, 10:41:37 am by Pickaxe » Logged
trotts
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2015, 20:42:26 pm »

You can search on here and find loads info re power commander (that I have) and many will offer a different opinion. IMHO reality is Bikes run 'lean' to save the world and pass emission tests.  By changing filter and after market can chances are it is even leaner, and you run a risk of potential problems down the road.

I would find out a friendly dyno man near you and get him to check it out and he will tell you how it is performing, rich lean what ever.  Might be best 20 odd quid you would spend !

A power commander costs a few quid, that said often see them coming up on flea bay and grab a bargain. You know your bike will then be set up and running as it should across the whole rev range.  

can't remember my fan ever coming on, even in the middle of Spain ! And brilliant MPG
Since i did this post I have changed my stock air filter and added a K&N.  At the same time I removed about half of the Fuel can Baffle, made it a bit shorter. (gave it a slightly deeper rumble) Kept it in place mind, so road legal when travelling.  

I popped down to my local dyno centre and cost me £30.  However my adjustments made the Bike run a bit rich between 3 and 5K revs and now  tweaked  on the dyno and now perfect.  Point is any messing about will affect how your bike runs.  I know that the fuelling on mine is spot on.  icon_thumright
« Last Edit: May 25, 2015, 20:43:57 pm by trotts » Logged
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